As the original pattern for this outfit didn't come with a skirt pattern, I have used my 1873 Underskirt pattern (E30501 29)
1. I cut out the pieces for the underskirt and sewed front pieces together and then sewed back pieces together.
I calculated the lines where the 5 rows of frills on the back of the skirt should attach (based on the depth of the frills given in the dress pattern) and tested it on the mannequin - it took a couple of tests to get it right...
2. The depth of the frills and the bias trim are given in the pattern, but not the length (because it will depend on the skirt pattern that you choose)
Measuring across the lines I calculated the frill ratio that I would need to make each frill.
At the front I made the frill 1:1.75. The upmost back frill was made 1:1, the next 3 frills were made at 1:1.25 and the lowest frill was made at 1:1.5 (I originally tried 1:2 on the front frill, but I thought it looked too gathered)
I attached the bias trim to each frill (but gave up on attaching the piping to the back frills - after all this is just a toile)
Then back and front panels are sewn together, the frills being caught up into the side seam. The bottom edge of the underskirt is just sewn under (it is a toile....) however, a facing should have been made to support the underskirt at this stage
3. The frill for the apron is made at a ratio of 1:1.5 with a bias edge and then attached to the lower part of the apron sandwiched with the bias that will cover the head of the frill.
This is flipped around and the bias is sewn down on the front side of the apron.
The apron edges are pleated according to the pattern and attached to the back ties (which also have the bias edges) the seams/edges are finished with a bias facing
4. Because I wanted a centre back closure (rather than a side closure) I made a placket by making a slit down the centre back and just binding the edges with straight piece of fabric (the resultant placket folds inwards towards the back of the dress and extends outwards on the underside)
Then the apron is attached at the waistline, the waistline is then pleated to fit the waist measurements and a waistband of straight material is made, with hooks and eyes closure
The additional frills on the front panels are now attached (width given in the pattern and the length calculated at a ratio of 1:1.5 and extended up to just under the apron line
Skirt toile now complete
(This is a toile and by no means is it an historically accurate construction. It can be used if you are experiencing difficulties with making your pattern)