1. Join the 4 back lining pieces, make up the pleats in the outer fabric of the back
2. Join back lining to outer back
3. Make up darts in front lining, add placket to front for closure. Make up the plastron and attach to right hand side of lining
4. Make the pleats in the front outer fabric, join to the back pieces at shoulders. Join the side pieces (lining and outer fabric).
5 Sew the collar around the neckline and down the centre fronts
6 Face the inside of the collar on the front pieces, clip and leave the seam allowance of the collar out
7 Attach the lining fronts at the shoulder line (I just stitched in the ditch along the outer front shoulder line.
Make a straight collar of the desired height, and the length is the length around the neck with the addition of the length required for the left hand side of the plastron and sew it on the seam allowance of the back that has been left out in the previous step, the fronts of the lining and the whole of the plastron in one go
8 The lining gets hooks and eyes to close, the plastron tucks under the upper front and collar pieces, and attaches to the lining on the left hand side with hooks and eyes
9 The front closes at waist pleats with hooks and eyes.
10 The sleeve parts are sewn up, the revers attached at the cuff and set into the armhole
The skirt darts are sewn and the panels joined together, the upper skirts are gathered and attached at the waistline and along the line indicated at the back
A placket is made at the back, the pleats made and then all is attached to a waistband of the desired length
A belt is made
(This is a toile and by no means is it an historically accurate construction. It can be used if you are experiencing difficulties with making your pattern)