1. Sew up the back seam of the skirt to the opening (Fente) and snip into the seam allowance at the end of the seam. Make a placket from a strip of fabric that is long enough to cover both sides of the opening and sew it along the opening seam allowance.
2. Fold the strip over and sew it down on the inside, then fold inwards so that one part is against the wrong side of the skirt and the other is extended from the seam of the other side (and press).
3. Face the bottom of the skirt (if you will be using this as a proper walking skirt then face it on the wrong side with a sturdy fabric up to 30cm from the bottom edge) otherwise face it with a bias strip and piping for more support
4. Insert the sturdy facing under the bias strip, or alternatively just hand stitch the bias strip down
Make the overskirt in the same fashion, but without the additional sturdy facing
5. For the bodice, make up the pleats in the back
6. Along with the front and back linings, sew the side and shoulder seams (finish with your preferred method
7. Face the fronts, including the frill on the right hand side. I used a ratio of 1:1.5 and extended it to just below the waistline
8. Attach the drawstring casing where indicated
9. Sew the upper collar together, clip the seams and turn and press
10. Attach the upper collar between the two collar stands (I usually sew these one at a time)
11. Attach the collar stand to the bodice (the outside first and then enclosing the clipped seam allowance, I hand sew the inside collar stand down)
12. For two part sleeves, I cut out the larger outlined sleeve part first
13. Then I cut away the smaller part from the pattern and for striped or check fabrics, I usually mark the direction of the fabric pattern
14. Then I line up the smaller sleeve patter piece on the fabric before I cut it out
15. Sew the sleeve pieces together, finish with preferred method, face the bottoms and gather the tops between the * marked on the pattern (for thicker fabrics I find it is easier to pleat the sleeve head in first and then gather) Insert the sleeves into the armholes and hem the bottom of the bodice
Finish the bodice with hooks and eyes to close
16. Sew the cape outer fabric and lining along the centre back, join them right sides together, sew around the complete edge, clip seam allowance, turn out and top stitch
17. Sew the outer fabric separately from 75 to 76, repeated with the lining
18. Clip the seam allowance at the end of this seam, and then sew right sides of outer fabric and lining together around the outer edge, clip seam allowance
19. Turn out and fold the peak of the lining into the peak of the outside edge and topstitch
20. Attach the hood to the neckline of the cape
21 I used the collar stand from the bodice (just slightly larger) to make the collar for the cape, sew right sides together, clip and turn out and then sew the collar to the neck edge, catching all of the seam allowances between the edges of the collar stand
The belt IS NOT included with the pattern, however, at this stage I used a purchased belt, and made the belt tabs for lifting the skirt from pieces of fake leather 30 cm long (when finished) You will need to also need to add the measurement of the width of the belt you choose, and make an allowance for attaching it
(This is a toile and by no means is it an historically accurate construction. It can be used if you are experiencing difficulties with making your pattern)