1 Make up the skirt darts, sew the panels together according to the numbers
2 Make a placket for the side back opening - straight strip of fabric sewn right sides together along seam allowances
3. Turn strip to inside over seam allowance and sew under on seam line, turn one side of placket under and leave other side of placket protruding
4 Picture of placet on inside
5 Add waistband, ensuring it is long enough to include the underlapping piece of the skirt
6 Mark darts and waist on lining
7 Sew darts and lining pieces together - sew shoulder seams as well
8 Baste the pleats on outer fabric front and sew front and back seams,
9 Mount the outer bodice onto the inner lining - baste stitch along the waistline
10 Sew the collar tabs and trim - attach them to the collar pieces according to the numbers, and then trim the collar
11 Make the back seam of the collar, turn and press
12 Attach the collar to the bodice
13 Cut the upper sleeve from the entire sleeve pattern then cut out the lower sleeve piece from the pattern piece
14 Cut the lower sleeve
15 Sew one sleeve seam, attach the trim and then sew the other sleeve seam. Face the bottom of the sleeve cuff and insert the sleeve into the bodice (gathering between the *)
16 Sew the trim on the bodice according to the numbers
17 Turn over and sew under one side of the bodice, add a placket to the other
18 Trim off the excess from the bottom edge of the bodice
19 Bind the lower edge with a small bias strip
20 Make a straight belt from a tube of self fabric using a stiffer fabric for lining - turn and trim
21 Attach hooks and eyes for fastening the bodice, skirt waistband and belt